Picking a Good Flash Battery for Your Gear

Eneloop Batteries from Sanyo
Eneloop flash battery
Eneloop flash battery

As with anything, photographers perform a natural progression with their flashes.  We start with the built-in flash, then quickly move to an added flash.  Said flash then becomes external, but still tethered to the camera, until finally we liberate the flash from the camera via wireless triggers and remote control.  Through all of it, we need to fire these flashes with some power source.  Inevitably, the question comes up about what flash battery is best for your gear and needs.

There are lots of flash battery options out there with options in every category from type of battery (alkaline, NiMh, and LiOn) to vendor (Sony, Sanyo, Duracell, Energizer, etc.), milliamps (1500 vs 2000 vs 2400), and then of course the never-ending debate over chargeable versus rechargeable.  As always, your mileage may vary, but I’ve always found some of the best results come from my usage of the Sanyo Eneloop brand.  These are rechargeable batteries and the ones I’ve used are the 1500 milliamp variety.

They’ve  been good, but after a couple years of usage and re-usage, it became time to get a whole new set.  So, I set out to look at how the landscape has changed in the battery realm.  Here’s a couple things to consider:

1.  Normal versus Rechargeable:  This was almost a no-brainer given the cost per battery…go with rechargeable batteries.  After recharging, you can reduce your cost per charge down to mere pennies instead of even a dollar per battery with regular alkaline flash battery options.  The question is really whether you should choose the Nickel Metal Hydride batteries (NiMh) or the Lithium Ion (LiOn).  The difference lies in your intended usage and needs.  The NiMh flash battery apparently charge much more quickly, but also deplete more quickly, and take fewer charges.  Conversely, LiOn flash battery does last longer, but also take longer to charge.  Additionally, you can also likely get more recharges out of these.  Of course, the downside is that the latter are a tad pricier.

2. Brand Stength:  Here I really think it comes down to personal preference.  Just like the Coke vs Pepsi, Ford vs Chevy, Canon vs Nikon, Mac vs PC debates, if you are strongly inclined by one brand or another, there is a battery out there that will work for you.  Pick your poison for whichever flash battery best suits your needs!

3.  Milliamps:  I liken the milliamps (mA) power of a battery to the Megapixels of a camera.  You can never have enough, and the race for more will never end.  Just a few years ago, a AA battery that had 1500 mA was cooking with gas.  Nowadays, that’s pretty much the norm and 2400 or more is desired.  There have been some reports of the higher powered ones overheating and cooking your flash, so I tend to shy away from the onces that are juiced the most.  As always, your mileage may vary.

So, there ya have it – 3 factors to consider when buying flash battery for your gear.  What did I end up going with?  Sanyo Eneloop Pros – the 2000 mA variety:

I got some AA’s for my flashes, and some AAA’s for my wireless triggers…along with the charger and it was less than $40 after shipping…not too shabby imho.  What are your favorite batteries for your gear?

Can Dogs Wink?


I believe so!


I was packing up a lot of photo stuff, including various 4×6 prints when I came across this.  It’s a poorly lit photo, I know (dreaded on-camera flash), and is totally not something I would include in any portfolio ever, but – this is you-know-who!  So, here’s a fun diversion for those of you that have wondered if dogs can wink!  Happy shooting!


Blur, Baby… blur!

Hey all, this week’s show is done and boy are you in for a treat!  Not only is there some pretty ground-breaking news from the computing world, but the theme for this podcast is blur!  I take a (hopefully) clear look at different types of blur you can get in your images, what can work, what will not work, and how to correct for different types.  Got some great listener questions and answers that tie in very nicely to the theme, and as, always the photo tip of the week.  Here’s the show notes:

News Links – HP Z800 Specs (listen to the show to find out why this is so amazing it’s the only news story!)

Focal Length/Crop Factor/Shutter Speed settings –

  • 50mm converts to 85 crop factor, which means a shutter speed of 1/100th
  • 100mm converts to a 160 crop factor, which means a shutter speed of 1/160th
  • 150mm converts to a 240 crop factor, which means a shutter speed of 1/240th
  • 200mm converts to a 320 crop factor, which means a shutter speed of 1/320th
  • 300mm converts to a 480 crop factor, which means a shutter speed of 1/480th
  • 400mm converts to a 640 crop factor, which means a shutter speed of 1/640th
  • 500mm converts to a 800 crop factor, which means a shutter speed of 1/800th
  • 600mm converts to a 960 crop factor, which means a shutter speed of 1/1000th

Listener Questions:

  • DOF Preview button
  • Battery Length
  • Portrait Lenses

Be sure to stop over to the good folks at PLM to get the podcast, and check out the Lensbaby Composer – a great resource for managing blur in your photos!  Happy shooting all and we’ll see you back here tomorrow!